Cloning Trick – Clone In a Good Eye Using Photoshop

Posted in Photography, Photoshop

Above is the final result of this tutorial. Here, I have a photo of an owl that I took a while ago. It would have been a nice shot if the owl didn’t wink at me. Here’s a trick I learned and I’ll share with you. The first thing I’ll do is go to the Window menu on the tool bar and click on the Clone Source option: The Clone Source panel will come up: I’m going to flip the source of the destination by changing the width value to negative 100 (-100). I’ll also put the value of negative 5 (-5) in the Rotate Source area. Every picture is different so this might need a little trial and error. But try the (-5) first: Now I’ll go and click on the Clone Tool: I’ll go to the tool bar at the top of the screen and make sure that I have the Aligned box checked. Also make sure that you are at 100% opacity and the Mode is set to Normal: Now I will ALT-Click on the center of the good eye. This will become my source. Then I’ll just start to paint with the clone tool over the closed eye. You’ll see that the eye is being painted as a mirror of the good eye. This will make it look completely natural: Here is the end result. When you’re finished, don’t forget to put the setting back to their original state in the Clone Source panel. I hope you like this little trick. You can use this with animals, people, anything. I think it’s very cool. Have fun!

How to Get Rid of Any Color Fringing Using Photoshop

Posted in Photography, Photoshop

Above is a section of a photo that I took of a blue heron. After I finished working on the photo, I noticed a blue fringe that went around the bird’s head and beak. Here’s a close up of the bird’s beak, so that the blue fringe can be seen: The first thing I’ll do is to click on the eye dropper tool in the tools pallet: Once I have the eye dropper tool active, I’ll click on the blue fringe and the color will show up in the color picker box: Now I’ll go to Image / Adjustments / Replace Color menu item: Here, the Replace Color dialog box appears. The color I selected, blue, will already be in the Color box. I’ll Move the Fuzziness slider to the right slowly, until I start to see the blue fringe. The blue fringe will appear white in the Fuzziness box: What I’m going to do is bring the Saturation slider to the left, to desaturate the blue fringe. I’ll also move the Lightness slider to the left to darken the desaturated line. Remember, every image is different. The Lightness slider may have to be moved to the left or right, but I’ll always move the Saturation slider to the left to desaturate. Here are my settings for this image. Look at the bird’s beak. Big difference: This can be done with any color fringing using this method. Check it out and see how it works for you. Have fun.

How to Replace the Sky with Quick Mask Using Photoshop

Posted in Photography, Photoshop

Here is the end result of this tutorial:


Here I have a photo of the Portland Headlight in Maine. It’s a nice photo, but I think the sky is a little dull and bland. I’m going to add a new sky to this photo; one with clouds to make it more interesting. Here is the original photo:


The first thing I’ll do is select the sky with the Quick Mask tool. I’ll click on the Quick Mask and then I’ll click on the paint brush tool. The color of the brush will be pinkish; that’s the color of the Mask:


I’ll take my time selecting the sky. Most of it is easy. I’ll just have to clean up some small details around the house and the light itself. Zoom in close if you have to and make the brush small for little details. Keep the brush at 100% opacity. It will be worth it in the end:


Here it is in the process. Remember, white reveals and black conceals. Go back and forth between the black and white color pickers to touch up small details:


Now that the Quick Mask is selected, I’ll click on the Quick Mask icon to get out of the Quick Mask mode:


Here’s the selection after exiting Quick Mask mode:


Now I’ll choose a photo of a sky filled with clouds to use as my new sky:


With the photo of the sky open and selected, I’ll do a Select All from the menu at the top of the screen:


Then I’ll go to Edit / Copy:


Next I’ll go to the photo of the lighthouse, select it and then I’ll go to Edit / Paste Into:


Now the new sky is in the photo of the lighthouse. If I don’t like the position of the sky I can always move it with the Move tool:


Here is what the Layers Palette looks like:


Here’s the finish photo:


Tip: whenever you see a beautiful sky, just take a picture of it without anything else in the picture. You never know when you’ll need a sky for one of your photos. Have fun!

Creating a 3D Pop-Out Effect Using Photoshop

Posted in Photography, Photoshop

Above is the effect I’m going to teach you how to do in this tutorial. The first thing I’ll do is open my photo into Photoshop. Here’s the photo I’ve selected for this project. This kind of effect works great with action shots. Boats traveling fast across the water or cars speeding past you, or even people running or jumping: The next thing I’ll do is make a selection around the main subject. I’ll use the Quick Selection tool to make my selection: Once the selection is made, I’ll hit CTRL-J on my keyboard. This will put the selection onto its own layer: In the next step I’ll click on the background layer to make it active. Then I’ll use the Rectangular Marquee Tool to make a rectangular selection around the part of the photo I want to keep. I’ll make sure not to select the front part of the boat. This is the part that I plan on having pop out of the photo. After I make the selection with the Marquee tool, I’ll again hit CTRL-J to put this selection on its own layer. So far this is what the Layers palette looks like: Next I’ll click on the rectangular photo layer, still labeled “Layer 2″. Here I’m going to put a stroke around this layer to make a border/frame around it. At the bottom of the Layers palette there is an FX icon. This is the layer style icon: I’ll click on the FX icon to open the layer style menu. Then I’ll click on Stroke at the bottom of the list: Here the Layer Style dialog box opens: The first thing I like to do is change the color of the stroke, so I’ll click on the color red that shows as the default color. When I click on the red box, the color picker opens up. Here I’ll choose the color white. I’ll do this by dragging the circle in the box to the top left corner where the red color fades to white. I’ll then click in the white area. Then I’ll click OK: Now that the color of the stroke is chosen, it’s time to decide how thick to make the stroke. I think 35 is a good thickness and that’s what I’ll use for this project. Where it says “position,” I’ll change the default of “outside” to “inside”. This will get rid of the rounded edges of the stroke. I’ll leave the opacity to 100%. Here are the setting I used in the Stroke dialog box: The next thing I’ll do is choose the Outer Glow option in the Layer Style dialog box. It’s the third one down on the left. Make sure to click on the words “outer glow” to see the options for this feature. Here I’ll change the Blend Mode from Screen to Multiply. I’ll bring the Opacity to 60 and then I’ll click on the black box to change the color to black. Clicking on the black box will bring up the Color Picker dialog box. I’ll just click on the black part of the box then click OK. In the Elements section of the box I left the Technique set to Softer, Spread 30 and Size 40. The Quality section at the bottom of the box I’ll just leave at the defaults. Then I’ll click OK. Play around with the sliders and see which arrangements suit your photo. Here is the setting I used in this box for the Outer Glow style: Now I’m going to add a little drop shadow to the man on the ski boat. Here I’ll go to “Layer 1″ and just double click on the layer to bring up the layer style dialog box. In the Drop Shadow dialog box I’ll select Multiply as the blend mode. I’ll put the Angle at 176 so that the shadow is in front of the boat. I’ll set the Distance to 24, the Spread to 34, and I’ll choose 27 for the Size. I’ll leave Quality at the defaults. Then I’ll click OK. Here are the settings: I need to get rid of the shadow inside of the box. I want the shadow outside the box to give the man on the ski boat the appearance of jumping out. I’ll save this step for last. To get rid of the distractions in the background behind the box and the man on the ski boat, I’ll click on the background layer and fill it with white. To do this, I’ll press D to set the background color to white, then I’ll hit CTRL-BACKSPACE to fill the background with white. The last thing left to do is to get rid of the shadow inside the box. To do this I’ll go to “Layer 1″. In “Layer 1″ I’ll right click on the FX icon on the right side of the layer: From the menu I’ll choose Create Layer. This flattens the layer so we can now erase the inner shadow. When I’m ready to erase I’ll make sure I’m on the “Layer 1” “Drop Shadow”: Here is the finished photo: Experiment and have fun!

How to Give a Photograph a Painterly Look Using Photoshop

Posted in Photography, Photoshop

Above is a photograph of a car that I recently took at a car show in Westchester. I’d like to give it a painterly look, so here’s how I’m going to do it. The first thing I do is open the photo in Photoshop. Then I’ll go to Shadow/Highlight. The reason I do this is to open up the shadows, which helps create the painterly look: Here are the settings I use. I’ll bring up the Shadow amount to 20 and the Highlight to 5. Then I’ll click OK: The next thing I’ll do is go to Filter/Noise/Dust & Scratches: I’ll bring the Radius slider to 24 and the Threshold to 37. These are the settings that I think look good for this photo. A different photo might need a little more or a little less with each slider. Here you see that the photo has transformed into a painterly look already: The next thing I’ll do is add some noise. So I’ll go to Filter/Noise/Add Noise: Here I’ll set the amount to 14.0 and keep the distribution set to Uniform. I’ll also uncheck the Monochromatic box at the bottom of the Add Noise box. Then I’ll click OK: In the next step I’ll equalize the photo. So, I’ll go to Image/Adjustments/Equalize: Here you can see the photo come to life. What I’ll do next is set the history marker in the history palette to the step before “equalize”: Then I’ll use the History Brush to go back one step and darken the background around the yellow car. The yellow car is the main subject and I want it to stand out: I’ll use the History Brush at 100% Opacity, and a 40% feather on the brush. On the tool bar at the top of the page, I’ll click on the triangle that’s pointing down to open up the brush options: Then I’ll be able to see all the brush options and the different selections of brushes. Here I have the brush hardness set to 40%. The Master Diameter is just the size of the brush: Here are the before and after images: Have fun and experiment with all the sliders. If you don’t want any noise in your photo, just leave out that step. If you want more of the painterly look, just increase the Radius slider in the Dust & Scratch menu.
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